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Hard Tips - Mouse Matters
by Bruce Thomas (rbthomas@edmc.net)

Rodent Slang

Shortly after I bought GEOS in the spring of 1988 I upgraded to a 1351 mouse and a 1764 REU (now with 512K). All of this allowed me to showcase the abilities of the C-64 by using GeoPublish to create half of our club newsletter, with output going to the same Laser Printer the Amiga half used. In the July 1988 issue I ran a definition created by our club president. This new word had been posted on the club BBS and had to be shared with the non-modem equipped members. Like most computer terms it takes some use before they really become accepted and eventually show up in the dictionary. Here is, at the ripe old age of 8 years, what could become the newest computer slang.

Rodentiate: (from Rodent (n.) + iate (v. suf.)) (v. intrans.) 1 To move a pointer by use of a mouse device; Use with "TO" and "FROM" (e.g., to pull down the menu, Rodentiate to the top of the screen and press the left button).

My 1351 mouse is great for rodentiating!

Care and Handling

To keep my 1351 working properly I take a few precautions. First and foremost is I always use a mouse pad. A good quality mouse pad makes it much easier to use your mouse. The surface is smooth and most feature a cloth cover on a foam rubber backing. A pad like this provides a stable environment for your mouse to roam. Like stables for larger animals you will want to keep this one clean also. Every week or so you will want to brush off the surface to keep it free of dirt and dust buildup.

The above precautionary process is not all you have to do to keep your mouse happy. About every two months you will want to flip your mouse over and remove the ball. The ball is what allows your mouse to 'feel' how far it has moved across your mouse pad so it can tell the computer how far to move your pointer/sprite. The ball is usually held in by a small plate that rotates or slides to a position where the ball can be removed by turning the mouse right side up. Don't forget to catch it as losing the ball is the quickest method of ruining a mouse.

Inside the mouse you will see three small rollers that rub against the ball and translate the movement into signals that are sent to the computer. Check these over very carefully. If your mouse pad or surface is not totally clean these could be dirty. If the rollers are dirty you will need to clean them with a cotton swab (dry or wet with rubbing alcohol). For stubborn lumps a small hobby knife can be used to scrape them off. You will also want to check the axels the rollers spin on. These are a favorite spot for dust or hair to collect. A pair of tweezers works great for cleaning the axles.

A part of the mouse a lot of people don't pay attention to is the connector you plug into the computer. If you have to unplug the mouse make sure you unplug it - do not pull on the cord. Carefully work the plug until it comes out. Be equally careful inserting it into the connector. I recently bought a used 128-D that had one pin bent over in the Joystick port. Luckily I was able to carefully straighten this out but if you break a pin off be prepared for a lot of work to replace the connector. I solved part of this problem by setting up a second system, with two Joysticks, for my children to use for games. This eliminates them having to unplug my mouse.

Lastly, keep your mouse covered when not in use. There are lots of cute little covers a person can buy that look like a real mouse but they aren't necessary. Just a small dish cloth will do to keep the dust from settling on the mouse between uses.

Program patches

When using the mouse a few problems invariably arise. One such problem was with RUN Paint, the graphics program published by RUN Magazine. In the November 1989 issue a 'cure' was provided for this problem that modified RUN Paint to work only with a mouse in Port 1. The question of mouse trouble with RUN Paint again surfaced when CMD introduced their SmartMouse to the market. In Issue #2 of Commodore World (CW) Magazine a fix was published in the TOP TIPS column. Apparently the problem had nothing to do with the mouse in use, but with a required internal delay for reading Port 2. With this CW patch the program works as originally intended with a mouse in Port 2. Contact CMD for a copy of this issue if you regularly use RUN Paint with a mouse.

Add a reset switch

When CMD came out with their SmartMouse I was impressed that they had added a third button ('turbo' feature in GEOS) and a built-in clock. CMD has a reputation for improving on previous ideas and building quality products. One thing that wasn't there was a reset button. My mice have both been modified with a reset switch. That's correct, a reset switch. Everyone has probably installed one on their C-64 and they work wonders on a mouse.

Commodore wisely designed their 1351 mouse with a true proportional mode as well as a joystick mode. Proportional mode is the default with Joystick mode being selected by holding the right button down when you power up. The 1351 manual states that this feature allows the mouse to be used as a joystick in the event the software doesn't support the proportional mouse mode. This is all fine and dandy if you remember to hold the right button down when you turn on your system, but isn't much help if you forget. This usually results in shutting down and physically connecting a joystick or powering up while holding the button and then re-loading the program. Not a very efficient way to do things.

While I haven't seen the insides of the SmartMouse, or the popular M3 mouse, I believe it should be just as easy to install the switch in these units as in the 1351. The amount of space inside the case will determine the size of switch that you will need and the location where you will mount it. On my 1351 the switch fits nicely on the left side of the cord on the front of the case. For left-handers it may just as easily be installed on the right side.

What you will need is a Normally Closed mini-switch (Radio Shack #275-1548) and a short length of wire. When you have taken your mouse apart and determined the best location for the switch you will need to drill a hole for it. The plastic case is soft enough that you should be able to use the bit in your hand, or at the most, turn it with a pair of pliers. My switches are installed right on the seam of the case and the nut is tightened after assembly.

To be able to 'start' your mouse you need to patch into the Ground line or the +5V line. Due to differences in internal construction between my Japanese and Hong Kong models, and to make installation easier I imagine, one is wired into pin 8 (ground) and one is wired into pin 7 (+5V). Locate the wire to pin 8 (preferably) and if you are able to remove it from the circuit board do that. Solder this wire to one pin on your switch and solder your length of wire from the other pin back onto the circuit board. The circuit board in mine was marked but you may want to verify that you have the right wire with a multi-tester. The Japanese model had a plug-in connector attaching the wires to the circuit board so the wire to pin 8 (marked on the connector) was cut and a wire run from each end of this to each pin on the switch. When you have the wires installed, close up your case and complete the installation with the nut on the switch.

My Japanese model had this installed almost 7 years ago. The other mouse came with a used system I got 3 years ago and the switch was already installed. Neither has given me any trouble. To use your new reset switch to select joystick mode all you have to do is hold the right button and press and release the reset button. Now, you won't have to shut down if you forget to power up in joystick mode. Pressing the switch without holding the button will 'start' the mouse in proportional mode.

One benefit of this switch is with GEOS. Have you ever wanted to use a joystick in GeoPaint? With a Change Input DA and the mouse reset button you can easily swap drivers and modes on the fly. Another use came to light when I set up a system in my daughter's room. I don't have enough mice so she has to use GEOS with a joystick (ugghhh). When she needs to print her work she brings it into the 'office' and uses one of the 2 systems there. Since her boot disk is set for a joystick it is easier to change mouse modes with the button than select the mouse driver and have to change back to the joystick driver when she returns to her own room.

As with all of the hardware modifications in this magazine, if you undertake this project you are on your own as far as responsibility goes. If you aren't comfortable with this type of project find a friend, or the hardware guru at your user group, who is willing to do the job for you.

All in all, following these tips will let you get more enGEOyment out of your rodentiating!